Karate Crack trad route in Smith Rock, Oregon

rock climbing trip to Smith Rock, Oregon..

Karate Crack is a great route! Strangely enough during my trip to Smith Rock, I’ve seen Karate Wall receive more rappelling traffic during the time we were there. Stream of climbers rapping down the wall after climbing up the Cinnamon Slab located next to it.

Great line, although I’ve read that (I have not done the climb myself yet) the climbing is more enjoyable at the cracks of the Lower Gorge.

I also have read that cams work in the crack, but a rack of hexes might work even better! Lots of pods make cams prone to walk, where hexes would hold much better, like a bomber! Be sure to protect your second on the traverse and down-climb to the chains!

The anchor location on this route is bizarre- the bolts should be at least three or four feet higher than they are. As it is, the person cleaning the route should be fairly solid at the grade as they are effectively on lead for the last few feet of the climb and the consequences of a fall are fairly high.

Great crack for tuff! If you can’t find the bolts at first glance after traversing right, look down and right (behind you), and there they are.. and the pigeons too.. A little funky crack, but fun..

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